Ôharai : purification rite

There is no way you went visiting a temple or a shrine in Japan without seing those little house with a bassin.

Those are called chōzuya or temizuya (手水舎)
Before entering the Shaden (社殿 : main building) of a Shinto sanctuary your are supposed to purify yourself from all sins and faults.

For this, you fill up the Hihaku (柄杓 :  laddle) with water.
Your first pour water on your left hand, then the right hand before putting water on your mouth and finally, slowly raising the Hikashu vertically to wash it and left it pure for next user.
This purification rite is called Ôharai (お祓い). It is actually a short simplified version of a proper purification rite which was usually performed in a river or in the sea.

The Chôzuya or Temizuya are very often shapped as dragon.
The can also be simply carved in stones ....
... and then sometimes you get to discover an unusual shape :

The beautiful Lotus Bassin of Araiyakushi Baishoin

The rare cow shapped from a little temple near Kyoto imperial castel

Dragons Chôzuya of Tokyo  

Daihigan-ji Temple

Daihigan-ji Temple

大悲願寺



● Address : 134 Yokosawa, Akiruno, Tokyo 190-0141
〒190-0141 東京都あきる野市 横沢 134
● Transportation : Musashi-itsukaichi (武蔵五日市駅 -Itsukaichi line)　(+15min walk)
● Web : Via Akiruno City OHP
● Entry fees : free

● Event : Setsubon ceremony in early February
Shirahagi Festival at the end of september.
("Shirahagi" white flower bloom, from mid-September to October beginning)
● Goshuin :  Ok (When the calligraph is here or you can ask for the paper version)

☆  The legend says that the temple has been founded in 1191 when the warlord Hirayama Kikasane  invited a monk fromd Daigojisan temple. At the Edo period the temple receive an official red seal (shoin) from the Shogun.

In 1794, the statue of Kannondo is raised and between 1824 and 1827 the path leading to the statue is built with all the statue representing Buddhas, Kannon, Warriors and Demons god.
You can still follow this short path behin the temple and go through the symbolique pilgrim for kannondo. 


If you take your time to look around you will be able to enjoy the numerous painting and wood crafting of the temple.
Don't miss out the little garden in front of the living place attached to the temple and most important, the little garden behind those buildings, at the foot of Kannondo's path.
Those cute japanese gardens with pond and stone sculpture are looked after by the 93 years old man owning the temple.

★ This is quite a big temple, bodering the forest almost not in the city anymore. Even if a bit old (it would probably desserve a bit more of maintainance but I am not sure there is the budget required) , the quieｔ surrounding gives the temple a calm and mysterious aura and it still looks like a pretty lively place busy with festivals, matsuri, singing performance and No-theatre representations ... you will have to go there on the right moment though.
The people working to maintain the temple are a warm and cheerful team of smiling grannys and grandpas ! If you are lucky, you could easily get to exchange a few words (in japanese) with them !
★ 8/10

 

main court

main court 2

paintings and wood work

 

Some of the statues along the path

Pond in the garden behind the living area

 

Small moss garden

Geographical Index

Geographical Index

► Tokyo 23 wards
 ● Nakano
 ● Shinjuku
 ● Shibuya
 ● Suginami
 ● Setagaya
● Zôshigaya

► Akiruno (1~2H from Tokyo)
 ● Akigawa Valley

The River of Akigawa Valley

The River of Akigawa Valley

秋川谷の川

● Station : Musashi-itsukaichi (武蔵五日市駅 -Itsukaichi line)
● From Shinjuku : 1H~1H30
● Journey : 
。Fastest (660￥) : Seibu Shinjuku Line => Koidara [change] Seibu Hijima Line => Haijima [change] Itsukaichi Line => Musashi-Itsukaichi (last stop)
。JR line only (800￥): Chuo Line => Tachikawa [change] Ome line / Itsukaichi Line => Musashi-Itsukaichi (last stop)
●  Park Fee : Free


☆ So this is a bit redundant because "Akigawa" means "Automn river". But there is more to discover than the river in Akigawa Valley, but let's start by the river around wich gave it's name to the area.

As far as  I know, though there are plenty of river in Japan, there aren't much river where you can go for swimming and especially river that are fitted out on the purpose.
But only 5min walk from Musashi-itsukaichi you'll find a park for you to spread your bathtower and go for a swimm. There are also a lot of fisherman up the river. The water is very clean. There In the park, there are a barbecue area and toilets available.

The things you have to know before going on your trip :
- it gets super crowded in summer
- there are no trees under which you can set your camp to avoid the sun
- If you go away from the crowd, remember you are into the wild so there will be a few encounters possible such as fish, heron and snakes.

★ You are a little bit in the town but a really small mountain town and the few houses afar won't be a turn down to enjoy a pleasant bath in the beautiful water of akigawa. My advise would be to plan a whole day trip half hiking / half swimming. Be careful if you start with the hike to not arrive to late in the afternoon or the water will get cold as the sun goes down (Japan is the country of rising sun ! be early !) There are a lot of hiking trails and road to to some temple sight-seeing in the area.

★8/10

BBQ area on the left. Note that I was there in october so there was no one.

A little bit up the BBQ area, nearing the fishermen place.

Very clear water ! ! !

Rhabdophis Tigrinus
It is a common snake in Asia, especially in mountain-river area.
Though it is venomous snake (so leave him in peace !!!) also remember that snakes are at least as scared of you (you are all tall and fat ! )
And again, I was there in october with no one around. They usualy don't hang around in the middle of the humans. Not very fond of BBQ probably ....

Shinjuku historical museum

Shinjuku historical museum

新宿歴史博物館

● Address : 22 Saneicho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0008
〒160-0008　東京都新宿区三栄町22番地 
● Transportation : Yotsuya (JR, Marunouchi Line & Namboku Line) exit 2 - Yotsuya-sanchome (Marunouchi Line) exit 4 - Akebonobashi (Shinjuku Line) exit A4 
● Web : http://www.regasu-shinjuku.or.jp/rekihaku/
● Entry fees : general exhibitions for adults 300￥ - students 100￥
500￥ for special exhibitions + general exhibition combined ticket
● Hours : from 9:30 to 17:30 (last entry 17:00)
Closed every 2nd and 4th monday of the month
Closed on may 12th
Closed from december 29 to january 3rd.

☆ A bit apart from Shinjuku's crazy heart, in a pleasant and quite surrounding, you will find the Shinjuku Historical Museum. This local museum will tell you the story of one of Tokyo main district from prehistory to nowadays. Through the story of shinjuku you'll have a glimpse of history of Japan.
You can even take a picture with (or in) a reconstructions of an Edo-period shop, in an old train car or in a traditionnal japanese house of the beginning of the 20th century.

You will be offered a pamphlet in english (or korean, or chinese) at the entry of the museum to navigate through the display case . The plates of the permanent exhibition are also in english.

★ You might have found the Edo-Tokyo museum on your Tourist guide books. Save yourself 300￥and wandering around time and go straight to Shinjuku Historical Museum. You can have a clearer sum up of the informations in a less crowded place. I've been delighted by this small museum and the welcoming helpfull employees are sure appreciated.
★ 8/10

.

Periods of Japan History

I intend to also advise you a few museums (though I am really not an expert of history).
And since you might not be an expert too I (patiently and nicely) did this summary of japanese history to help you understand it (roughly).
This is a summary of periods of Japanese history with a few dates of Japanese history.

Prehistory
● Pre-ceramics Palaeolithic era : ~ to - 10000
。 -30 000 human activity testified
● Jōmon era : -10 000 to -300  (rope pattern ceramics)
。 -660 start of the legendary reign of Jimmu, Japan first Emperor
● Yayoi -300 à 250 (agriculture and metallurgy)

Antiquity (Kodai)
● Yamato Era 250 -> 710
。250 -> 538 Kofun period
405 Chinese writing adoption
。538 -> 710 Asuka period
538 Buddhism enters in Japan
708 first japanese coins
●  Nara Era 710 -> 794
。712 writing of 「Kokiji」 book of Shinto basis
。720 writing of 「Nihon Shoki」 book of Japan chronicles
● Heian Era 794 -> 1185
。815 Tea is introduced in Japan from China
。861 chinese calendar adoption

Feudal period (Chūsei)
● Kamakura Era 1185 -> 1333
。1221 Beginning of the Shogunate
● Kenmu restoration 1333 ->1336
。Restoration of the emperor
。1335 Shogun take the power back
● Muromachi Era 1336 -> 1573
。1338 official restoration of shogunate
。1543 European arrives in Japan
● Azushi Momoyama Era 1573 -> 1600
。1592-1598 Occupation of Korea

Beginning of the modern period (Kinsei) : Edo Period 1600 - 1868
。Tension with occidental countries and then opening to foreigners
。1855 Tokyo Earthquake


Modern period (Kindai) : Japanese Empire 1868 - 1945
● Meiji Era 1868 -> 1910
。1871 creation of the 「ｙｅｎ」Tension with occidental countries and then opening to foreigners
。1873 Adoption of occidental calendar
。1889 Enactement of Meiji Constitution
。1894-1895 First war with China
。1904-1905 Russian war
。1910 annexation of Korea
● Taisho Era 1910 -> 1926
。1916 first japanese moviecreation of the 「ｙｅｎ」Tension with occidental countries and then opening to foreigners
。1923 Big kanto earthquake
● Pre-war Showa Era 1926 -> 1945
。1927 Start of the metropolitan in Tokyo
。1940 Pact with Italy and Germany
。1889 Enactement of Meiji Constitution
。1941 december 7th : Pearl Harbor attack
。1944 USA occupies Okinawa
。1945 august 6th : atomic bomb on Hiroshima
。1945 august 9th : atomic bomb on Nagasaki

Contemporary period (Gendai) : 1945 ~
。1945 december 17th : women can vote
。1946 may 3rd : opening of Tokyo trial
。1946 november : New constitution is voted
。1947 may 3rd : beginning of the new constitution (end of 「The empire of Japan」) 
。1948 end of Tokyo trial, 7 japanese leading mens are evicted to deaths 
。1948 governement officer are forbidden to go on stike
。1964 Tokyo Olympic games
。1965 Treaty with south Korea
。1972 Okinawa returns to Japan。1978 august 12th Treaty of Peace with China
。1995 Kobe Earthquake。1995 sarin gas attack in Tokyo Metro
。2011 march 11th : Tsunami on the Tohoku and Fukushima Nuclear disaster

...
 

Araiyakushi Baishoin Temple

Araiyakushi Baishoin Temple

新井薬師梅照院


● Address : 5 Chome-3-5 Arai, Nakano, Tokyo 165-0026
〒165-0026 東京都中野区新井5-3-5
● Transportation : Araiyakushimae (Seibu Shinjuku Line) -
Numabukuro (Seibu Shinjuku Line)  - Nakano (JR)
● Web : ?
● Entry fees : free

● Event : Setsubon ceremony in February
On the 8th, 18th and 28th of each month the temple is open for prayers.
Flea Market once per month
● Goshuin :  Ok (from 10am to 5pm)

☆ The Araiyakushi Baishoin usually called Araiyakushi is a buddhist temple founded in the 16th century though today's buildings are more modern. It is one of the major temple in Nakano.

The temple is dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai (healing Buddha).
Based on a story of one of the daughter of Tokugawa Hidetada (a Tokugawa Shogun) has been miraculously cure of her eye desease after coming to the temple, the Araiyakushi became famous to cure eye illness.
You can buy ema (絵馬) - wooden card to write your wishes - on wich you will rear "me" which means "eye" (め in japanese) and  shaped as eyes.

Take a moment to go around, see the bell, the 2 floors pagoda and the stone pagoda, the statue of buddha you can shower with water for good luck and also check on the very nice fountain for purification shaped as lotus flower instead of the usual dragon.

★ In the middle of the city, the Araiyakushi of Nakano is a nice temple. It is a bit muddy but it has nice items and it definitely worth your attention when you come to Nakano. Nearby, you can also check on the Arai Tenjin Kitano Shrine (there is a big park in between, not 'unpleasant' but the muddy type)
★8/10

Entry of the temple from the street

inside the temple and the め 'me' cards

The beautiful basin with lotus

You can pour water on his head for luck

The Bell

Raise your head and on the ceiling you will see all the seals from 30 (and more) years ago of people who wanted to thank the temple.

General view

Goshuin & Goshuin-chô

You might have seen this when you were visiting temples and shrines.
Those beautiful note-book or maybe you saw one of the monk writing down a calligraphy on one of those note-books.


Tose calligraphy are called Goshuin : ご朱印
"Shuin" (朱印) means "Seal"
"Go" ( ご) is an honorific prefix

They are the sign of the temple. Usually the priest or monk will write the name of the temple, the date of the day of your visit and add the stamps of the temple.
At the beginning Goshuin were considered like something very special and only given to real believers and ...old people. (One of the privilege of great age !) But nowadays anyone can ask for a Goshuin. It will cost you 300yens.
You can have one in either buddhist or shinto temples and shrines. It is considered as a proof of your visit and lot of people collect them in the Goshuin-Chô. The beautiful and official note-book for Goshuin that you can buy in those very same temples and shrines. (Price is usually around 1000~2000yens).

And what if you forgot your Goshuin-chô ?!
Well, first of all carry it anytime you have even the slightest chance to go across a temple. (This is my advise) but if you forgot it you can ask for a Goshuin on a paper... that you will glue on your goshuin-chô (it's a sad but we all have to go through this eventually).

Sum it up :
Goshuin : Seal of temples and shrines.
Where : In most of buddhist or shinto sanctuary.
Price : 300yen

Goshuin-chô : Note-book for Goshuin
Where : In most of buddhist or shinto sanctuary.
Price : 1000~2000yens

Arai Tenjin Kitano Shrine

Arai Tenjin Kitano Shrine

新井天神北野神社


Adress : 4 Chome-14-3 Arai, Nakano, Tokyo 165-0026
〒165-0026 東京都中野区新井4-14-3
Transportation : Araiyakushimae (Seibu Shinjuku Line) -
Numabukuro (Seibu Shinjuku Line)  - Nakano (JR)
Web : http://araitenjin.com/

Entry fees : free

Event : Matsuri the 3rd week-end of September
Goshuin :  Ok (from 10am to 5pm)

☆ The Arai Tenjin, usually named Kitano Shrine is a Shinto Shrine. The date of its foundation isn't clear. There is a mention of a wandering Bouddhist monk  in the Tenshô era (1573-1592) who would be the founder of the temple. The temple was formally part of the Araiyakushi Baishoin.  But when the temples were asked to separate the Shinto and Buddhist cult (400 years ago) they had to split the sanctuary into 2 distinct temples.

This temple is mostly dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane (菅原道真 845 - 26 mars 903), a writer and a poet who has been deified into a god of Bunburyodo (文武両道 : "The path of brush and sword"). He's praised for culture and letters. Those gods are called (Tenjin : 天神). Students can turn to him to ask success for their exams.
Ukemochi is also one of the deity of the temple. She provides food and prosperity to the village.

 
★ Araitenji is a small simple temple in the middle of the city. You can stop by to see the small but nice moss and treee flowerbeds and caress the cow to get some luck and health.
(The park next to the temple is a bit sad and mostly occupied by homeless people, you better go on the other side of the street to Araiyakushi Baishoin Temple and his bigger park)


★ 6/10 (I want to put a 7/10 because priest were nice but this wouldn't be very honest)

This stone is a present from the firemen of the city.

Caress the cow will give you wealth...maybe

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED

You are back from Kyoto and you're bored in Tokyo ?

You read all the usual guide book that only tells you about Tokyo high buildings and modern towers and you're done with it.

I,
Nakano-Ko2819 ,
Will do my best to get you to like Tokyo (west) as much as I do !
I know there is much to Tokyo than the skytree and the Tokyo city hall.
As Indiana Jones was going to discover new aventures all around the world I will go dig around to Tokyo Treasures and share it with you !

Challenge Accepted !